It's a bit of a gamble, but certainly interesting. The 2-bath approach mentioned by Donald is interesting, but it's not the "official" approach and you may or may not run into problems with contrast, saturation, crossover and grain. Everything in this process should either keep for several months or be cheap enough to replace when needed without great pain.Ĭlick to expand.That's a tricky one. So: Dignan 2-bath color developer, stop/wash, bleach, wash, fix, wash, final rinse, and hang to dry. I've used this, and found that if you develop near the bottom end of the recommended temperature, you may get some magenta cast in your scans or prints, but it you develop above 80F you'll get what you'd get with commercial C-41 at 102F. As long as you develop at high enough temperature (Dignan recommends 75F as a minimum, but anything up to regular C-41 temp of 100-102F is said to be fine), for at least the recommended times in each bath, you'll get a good results. Bath B is almost free, and Bath A has enough preservative to keep well (and is reusable, within reason, with no increase in process time the only exhaustion is in the carried-over developer that gets discarded with the Bath B).
In the case of the Dignan C-41 formula, the (reusable) Bath A has the developing agent, preservative, anti-fog - and Bath B is just a sodium carbonate solution. After Bath B, you would wash, bleach, wash, fix, wash, and final rinse as normal for a non-blix C-41 process. This activates the carried-over developing agent, which develops to exhaustion - and again, there's a minimum time, but leaving the film in for longer does no harm. Much like Diafine or other two-bath black and white developers, you first soak the film for some period of time (instructions give a minimum, longer does no harm) in Bath A, which soaks into the gelatin and carries over a controlled amount, then without stop bath or wash the film goes into Bath B, which is generally just the alkali (or alkali and preservative, in some cases). One possibility for color developer with good life is Dignan's two-bath C-41 process. That leaves the color developer life as an issue. Fixer is fixer - any rapid fixer will clear your bleached film, and fixers keep pretty well when not combined with a bleach (as well as being inexpensive).
If you use separate bleach and fixer, your bleach can be regenerated by bubbling air through it (an aquarium pump and air stone will work) bleach likes oxygen, and won't fail due to air exposure.
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